Crackbird Dublin: pop-up restaurants arrive in Dublin

This post was originally written in May.  I have NO IDEA why it has posted again.  Ignore it and I'll do my best to post something new in its place over the weekend.  Promise!


Tick, tock. Tick, tock.
Time is running out for those of you who have yet to eat at Crackbird, Dublin's very first pop-up restaurant.


Open since the 21st of February, this buzzy (and busy) little restaurant on Crane Lane in Temple Bar is going to close its doors and disappear forever on the 22nd of this month. This means you now have only 11 days left to try the tasty chicken and experience the laid-back atmosphere for which Crackbird has quickly become renowned.

Run by the same people who are behind the hugely popular Jo'Burger burger joint in Rathmines; the idea behind Crackbird is simple: serve the most ridiculously addictive fried chicken with a range of sides and sauces.

I had heard lots of hype about this restaurant before my boyfriend and I visited on Monday and was apprehensive as to whether Crackbird could live up to it. My scepticism deepened as we walked down the dingy side street that is Crane Lane. Had I got the address wrong?

The exterior didn't look too promising either. Dark and gloomy, it didn't bode well for what we'd find inside.

But once we stepped inside, I found myself getting excited again. Bare lightbulbs hung over long communal tables lined with smiling people sharing buckets of chicken, salads and dips. The staff - all skinny jeans and quiffs - were friendly and welcoming. And there was music. LOUD music.

We had booked 'tweetseats' through Twitter. (Basically, this meant that we got to eat for free. All we had to do was follow @CrackBIRDdublin on Twitter and send them a message specifying the time, date and number of diners. Simple.)

So, what did we eat?

We ordered the super crisp soy garlic chicken, the semolina chicken crunches, carrot and cranberry salad, chermoula sauce and a whipped feta and burnt lemon sauce with a lime ginger spritzer and a rhubard lemonade to drink.


The super crisp soy garlic chicken arrived in a cute little red bucket and was exactly what we hoped it would be. It was so crispy it crunched. It was perfectly seasoned, perfectly spicy and completely addictive.

The burnt lemon and whipped feta sauce the waiter suggested we have with it was a revelation and my highlight of the entire meal. Its smoothness counterbalanced the spiciness of the chicken and the burnt lemon lent it great depth. (I loved this sauce so much that I'm going to have to try making it for myself. Watch this space for updates on my progress!)

The semolina chicken consisted of strips of moist chicken breast coated in crunchy semolina. It worked well with the herby, zesty chermoula.

The carrot and cranberry salad was sweet and fresh and provided a good contrast to the mostly fried food.

Finally, the drinks, served in repurposed jam jars, were zingy and refreshing.


My verdict? All that apprehension was unfounded. I loved the charming attention to detail - seating composed of picnic benches, homemade napkins in cute patterns, the jam jars for drinks... The food was great. As were the drinks (we didn't have any booze but if we had wanted to, there was beer, wine and cider to choose from). I liked the communal atmosphere and had the sense that we could have stayed there for as long as we wanted, sharing food, sipping drinks and chatting - not something you feel welcome to do in most restaurants.

The only negative was that I felt the chicken - the focus of the menu at Crackbird - should have been free-range. The menu tells us that the chicken comes from a cooperative farm in Cavan but I'd have felt happier if animal welfare were more of a priority.

Also - and this is going to make me sound SO old - the music was slightly too loud.

Those reservations aside, Crackbird is to be recommended.

Time is ticking people. Dublin's very first pop-up restaurant will soon be a thing of the past. Tuck into their chicken dishes, sides and sauces while you still can.

Disco divas, political protests and festive foodies: a weekend in Dublin

A trip to Dublin always leaves me with lots of food for thought. This past weekend's trip was no different, except that I crammed in so much that my thoughts may have been fed more than usual...

Goldfrapp played the Olympia on Friday. I'd only seen her once before at the Electric Picnic where she'd played a frenetic set full of theatrical flourishes so I had high expectations.

She more than delivered. Alison Goldfrapp is such a disco diva. Her bleached blonde ringlets, demonic eye make-up, a sparkly leggings and tottering platforms combo, a wonderfully ethereal white net and harlequin ensemble and stonking beats had the crowd enthralled from start to finish.

(I coveted those leggings and platforms. I firmly believe that if I had them, my social life would improve by a factor of infinity.)

Here are some pictures of the show:

Saturday was a day of protest. Thousands came from all over Dublin and from across the country to voice their anger. There were OAPs and children, trade unionists and the unemployed.

From what I gathered from people's banners, from talking to those around me and from listening to the speakers outside the GPO, the general sentiments were disillusionment, disappointment, disbelief and, in many cases, despair. How could we have fallen so far so quickly? How could we have been so let down by those we trusted to lead us? And why were they refusing to listen to us now that we no longer trusted them?

I was expecting such feelings but what I wasn't expecting was the lack of an alternative, of new voices. Everyone spoke about the need for change and how imperative it was to oust Fianna Fáil from government. But nobody could suggest a better option for the future. Everybody agreed that we needed a new way forward but there was little consensus as to what that way forward should be. (I know the likes of Fintan O'Toole are suggesting options but he seems to be far from winning popular support, for now at least.)
We need to have a national conversation. What do we want Ireland to stand for? How do we make it a fairer place for all?
We need new voices to be heard, younger, more idealistic voices, voices that come from people who are not born into politically-affiliated families. Where are they? I want to hear them.
After the protest ended, we switched to bourgeois mode at the Taste of Christmas in the National Convention Centre. I'd been looking forward to this as Heston Blumenthal was appearing at it and I love his playful attitude to food. But - hmm, how shall I put this? - the event didn't quite live up to my expectations.
My heart sank when I saw Hector Ó hEochagáin. I know lots of people find him hilarious but his exaggerated persona (almost a stage Irishness) rankles with me. He was MC for the show.
His first act was to call on celebrity chef Gino D'Acampo. I had only heard of Gino before I saw him on Saturday so I don't know what he is like on TV. On stage, however, I found him quite offensive. He really played up the idea of the macho Italian male - grabbing his crotch as he mentioned Italian meat, choosing good looking women in the audience and kissing them lingeringly on the mouth and inviting a pretty woman up on to the stage and instructing the camera to zoom in on her bum (something she was obviously uncomfortable with).
Most of the audience were laughing heartily at this so I'm obviously in the minority when I say that I found this offensive. Do you think I was being oversensitive?
Gino cooked spaghetti with homemade pesto sauce and was then joined on stage by Kevin Dundon who told us how to prepare the perfect turkey with two types of stuffing: sausage meat and breadcrumbs with sage. I like Kevin so this part didn't make me grit my teeth!
Next up was Franc of 'Brides of Franc' fame. I can laugh at Franc because he is so knowingly camp. His take on a festive table setting was sparkly, shiny and completely OTT - just as you'd expect.

Then it was Heston's turn. He didn't cook but instead he spoke about how he first became interested in food and what/who influenced him - a family trip to the south of France, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Provence, crickets chirping, fields of lavender and food being one element in a multi-layered sensory experience all featured in the tale.
He spoke carefully and seriously and I could have listened to him all day. But next in line was Oliver Dunne of Bon Appétit and Malaysian chef Jennie Cook who created unusual Christmas desserts. Jennie prepared a sticky spicy fruit kebab with coconut and pandan leaf while Oliver created a concoction of cookies, chocolate, cream and booze.


The show ended with a performance from two barmen who make cocktail shaking into an art. I can't remember what they were called but we were told they were from Manchester and that they'd provided the drinks at Simon Cowell's 50th birthday party. Judging from their juggling and jiving while they mixed the drinks, it must have been one hell of a party.
After the show, we wandered around the various stalls and sampled some food. A particular highlight was a crab creme brulée with pickled cucumber and toast from The Tannery. The creamy richness of the crab was offset by the tangy sourness of the pickle and the crunch of the toast - perfect.
However, there was something about this whole event that didn't ring true with me. I felt as though it fetishised food too much. Everyone was ooh-ing and aah-ing over the tiniest morsels of culinary perfection and salivating over the latest kitchen gadgets but somehow it felt distanced from what food really is. There wasn't any sense of food as sustenance, something that brings people together and something that is actually quite simple. This event felt too competitive, too stressful and too try-hard - everything that I think food shouldn't be.
By the end of the day, it was snowing, something that rarely happens in Dingle so here's a picture of me enjoying it.

I know there's not much that's food-related in this post but as I said at the beginning, this trip to Dublin certainly left me with a lot of food for thought.
(By the way, most of the photos here are by my boyfriend, Richard Smallwood - the REAL photographer of the family.)

Cookbook Club Review

Aah," squealed Sharon, as she whacked her forehead and made the lady sitting next to her jump in surprise. "What's the matter," asked the kind lady. "I'm so stupid," mumbled Sharon. "I've brought my camera but somehow I've left my memory card at home so I can't take any pictures of the food".

"But who takes pictures of their food," asked the confused lady. "Don't most people just eat it?"

That was the moment a very confused lady was introduced to the world of food blogging and it was also the moment I realised I wouldn't have any pictures to share with you from Monday night's Cookbook Club in Dublin. Thankfully, the lovely organiser Elaine came to the rescue with some pictures taken by a photographer on the night. There aren't many of the food but you will get an idea of the atmosphere of the evening.

I went with two Polish friends, Beata and Filipe. We had decided that, seeing as there were three starters, main courses and desserts to choose from, we would order one of each and share.

My first impressions were good. Ely is in a fabulous old building. Its architecture highlights its heritage and you can't help but wonder what stories these walls could tell. Later on in the evening, the owner of the restaurant would tell us some of these stories. Did you know that the 4,000 Irish soldiers who fought in the Crimean War had a banquet here before they left? Fascinating.

The atmosphere at Ely's was animated from the moment we arrived. The layout of the room and of the tables was arranged in such a way that it encouraged interaction with others at the table. So, not only did I speak to Beata and Filipe (and to the startled lady next to me) but we also had interesting chats with two other women.

These two women, to be precise:

They were interested in farmers' markets, the upcoming Taste of Christmas and Dáithí Ó Sé's chocolate biscuit cake, as seen on RTE's The Restaurant. (They almost hyperventilated when I told them that because I used to be good friends with his sister, I had tasted this cake on many an occasion!)

While conversation was definitely on the menu at Ely's, it wasn't necessarily always easy to hear what others were saying, especially if they were sitting across from you. It may be because of the low vaulted ceilings but the acoustics of the room amplified the sounds and you had to shout in order to be heard. My ears were ringing when I left and Beata said she felt as though she had been in a nightclub. This was a pity but nevertheless, it didn't stop us talking.

The lovely Elaine was the host for the evening. She greeted everyone when they arrived and gave a welcoming speech before the meal was served. She also introduced that night's chef, Clodagh McKenna, whose food was being cooked by the kitchen. Clodagh was extremely warm and friendly and during the evening, she went from table to table, chatting with the diners.

So, what about the food?

Here's what we ate:

Starters:

Chicken Liver Parfait with Carmelised Onion and Mustart Seeds served with a Spicy Apple Chutney
A Pesto Ricotta Tart
French Onion Soup with Gruyere Toasts

Mains:

Italian Beef Stew
Baked Whole Sole with Salsa Verde (this was replaced with swordfish when the sole ran out)
Homemade Gnocchi with a creamy Bellingham Blue Cheese Sauce

Desserts:

Cardamon-infused chocolate mousse pots
Rosewater jellies
Orange-scented rice pudding

Because Ely's prides itself on its extensive wine list, they had recommended wines to match the food and we followed their advice.

So, what did I think? Unfortunately, I thought the food was slightly disappointing. The chicken liver parfait was perfectly smooth but it needed something to contrast with its creamy mildness and the onions and chutney just didn't do it. I thought the French onion soup was wonderfully sweet and was well complemented by the cheesy toasties. (However, Beata - an onion fanatic - thought there were too many onions and not enough liquid). The pesto ricotta tart was delicious. Light, creamy, herby; perfect.

The Italian beef stew had an unexpected touch of sweetness and lots of chunky pieces of meat. By the time we ordered our fish, the sole had been replaced by swordfish (which I must confess is not one of my favourite fish) and I thought the resulting dish was a little dry and slightly boring. But the gnocchi was a revelation. This was the dish we had expected least from but it was stunning. The gnocchi themselves were perfectly cooked and the blue cheese sauce was so creamy and had such depth of flavour. It was one of those dishes you could easily eat again and again and again.

So far, the dinner was going quite well but when the desserts arrived, it nosedived. The rosewater jelly was perfectly pleasant but not memorable. The rice pudding was completely underflavoured. And the chocolate mousse pots didn't really taste of chocolate. They also had a funny grainy texture - maybe from the cardamon?

This was such a pity as it ended what had been a good evening on a low note. (When I'm cooking at home, I almost always plan my dessert first as I find that even the biggest culinary disasters are instantly forgotten the moment guests taste something decadently sweet and here, I think the opposite applied.)

My overall verdict? The evening was very convivial and I had lots of interesting conversations. Ely's wine list is phenomenal. The food could have been better. But I would definitely go again.

One funny thing though: there were hardly any men there. Women seemed to outnumber men by at least ten to one. Weird, eh?

An exciting new event for Dublin's foodies

Have you heard about the Cookbook Club? I hadn't until I saw it mentioned in The Sunday Times' Style section a few weeks back but I was instantly intrigued. If you're a foodie, you are sure to be too.

Its founder, Elaine Walsh, recently told me what it was all about:

"Everyone seems to like the ethos and quirkiness of the club," she says. "An in-house chef interprets a menu adapted from a cookbook and cooks that menu for 120 people. It's a challenge for them to interpret the recipes but then that's what we all do at home with cookbooks, isn't it? With the club, you get to eat the lovely dishes in the pictures but someone else has cooked them and you don't have to do the washing up!"

To make it even more interesting, the chef/author of the cookbook is also present on the night. They introduce the menu and I'm sure they also make the in-house chef feel nervous about doing their recipes justice!

The Cookbook Club meets on the first Monday of every month and next Monday, the chefs at Ely Bar and Brasserie will be cooking what they consider to be some of Clodagh McKenna's best dishes. Diners will have a choice of three starters, three main courses and three desserts. And most excitingly of all, I'm going to be there to sample them!

I love the story of what inspired Elaine to start this club. It's a story that combines everything that makes food so important: family, bringing people together, the conviviality of preparing food and the enjoyment there is in sharing the pleasure of a meal.

Here's how Elaine explains it:
"There are two things," she says. "I'm from a farm in West Clare but I hated it. I hated weeding, minding the cattle and cutting the turf. But I did like the preparation of our own homegrown food. My mum and grandmother used to dissect recipes they scoured from 'Woman's Way' magazines and old domestic science books to find something 'cordon bleu-y' to do with the same old mutton or turnip or we'd all die of boredom. They'd be cleavering meat and chopping vegetables, gossiping all the while. I'd be sitting eavesdropping on the stairs and I think that's why I associate food preparation and family gossip and get-togethers with cookbook narratives. I want to know the story behind the dish."


Elaine is also writing a cookbook of her own, which has its very own story. "It's about five real-life sisters who were all taught to cook by their extraordinary mother," she explains. "That book won't be released until next year but while I was studying the cookbook market, I started to think about organising big social get-togethers for groups of friends and family."

That's how the idea was born and the club has met twice so far. In September, the chefs of the Town Bar and Grill interpreted the recipes of Paul Flynn from The Tannery and in October those of Catherine Fulvio. Elaine was thrilled with both events .

"There's such conviviality and fun," she says. "Some people use it as a chance to catch up but it's also great to bring people together and to see strangers make friends. I've even had two romances come out of it. At one occasion, two cousins who hadn't seen each other in over 30 years because of a family row happened to be sitting together. It was so emotional to see them reconnect."

She is now planning to bring her cookbook club to other parts of Ireland and maybe even further afield. Future events are being organised for Cork, Belfast and Galway.

I don't know if there are any more tickets available for Monday but if you're interested, the cost is €35 and more information can be found here: http://thecookbookclub.ie/

In the meantime, I'm going along on Monday and I'll post a review to let you know how it goes.